Veracruz

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Lighthearted Veracruz is different from other Mexican cities, and the difference quickly becomes apparent. You feel the heat (after the April rains come) as a palpable thing, and one experience with it helps you understand the paradoxical combination of vivacity and indolence you sense in tropical people. The warm climate and fruitful land favor both the rich and the improvident; the palmthatched shack is never far from the palatial town house, and everyone from peon (laborer) to presidente gathers under the arcades.

Above all, you'll notice that Veracruz has not made the special preparations and provisions for tourists found in most cities in Mexico. Veracruz is for itself. Insights into the lives of the people are there to appreciate; unselfconsciously, the people live out their lives.

Noise in this city where shutters are more common than glass windows seems magnified in the warm air. Car horns blare, little open sided streetcars clatter, and radios blast tropical rhythms into the streets.

But most striking of all is the brilliant light, the glare of the tropical sun. Rain, salt air, and the relentless sun make new walls look old so they blend with ancient walls, adding an atmospheric unity to the city's architecture.

The importance of Veracruz as the main port of entry on Mexico's cast coast is evident today in the omnipresent references to the ocean and ships throughout town: the Chapel of Christ of the Safe Voyage, torts, lighthouses, shipyards, and an abundance of delicious seafood, Activity first began in Veracruz when Cortez landed in the harbor and founded the city in 1519, before beginning his westward march to conquer the Aztecs. Almost all mail and commerce went through Veracruz during the colonial era. Its harbor has seen invasions by the United States, France, and Spain.

What to do. In the city, be sure to see the waterfront, fish market, small food markets, and the trim subdivisions. Stroll under the arcades; sit in an outdoor cafe or on a gaily tiled park bench; ride an open sided streetcar; and visit the marine curio shops near the docks. You may arrange for a boat for tarpon or deep sea fishing, or a visit to the offshore Isla de Sacrificios. Inquire about boat rentals at your hotel or the customhouse dock. Drive out to the old, lichen encrusted fortress prison of San Juan de Ulua. If you haven't seen the El Tajin ruins, hire a car and/or guide for a day's visit.

Where to stay. Veracruz hotels are generally airconditioned, and most have pools, as well as cocktail lounges and sidewalk cafes. In some you'll find spots for dancing.

Veracruz - Mexico