Teotihuacan, 25 miles northeast of Mexico City via a toll road that takes off from the Laredo highway on the outskirts of the capital, is an archaeological site so majestic that the Aztecs, who came upon it several centuries after its abandonment, named it the "City of the Gods." Its urban area covers 8.7 square miles and, at the height of its glory (about 200 to 600 A.D.) the inhabitants numbered between 100,000 and 200,000. The magnificent ceremonial center and some of the outlying palaces and priestly dwellings have been restored, and the zone is open every day.
The largest and oldest monument is the Pyramid of the Sun. It was constructed in about 100 B.C. over a long, sinuous, sacred cave the relics found there prove that the site had been populated for two centuries or more before the pyramid was built. Including the sanctuary that once stood on its summit, the pyramid is 230 feet high, the tallest so far discovered on the American continent.
The broad Avenue of the Dead, 1.5 miles long, runs precisely parallel to the Pyramid of the Sun. On the north it terminates at the Plaza and Pyramid of the Moon (considerably smaller and erected some time after that of the Sun). To the south it passes in front of the huge enclosure erroneously called the Citadel, and there it ends. In reality, the so called Citadel was a ceremonial complex; the
ancient Mexicans worshiped their gods in the open air.
On the eastern side of the square court stands the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (Plumed Serpent), the facade covered with superbly carved stone heads of feathered serpents and the rain god Tlaloc.
Facing on the Plaza of the Moon and along both sides of the Avenue of the Dead are numerous small, flat topped pyramids and temples. At the southwest corner of the plaza stands the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl. Completely reconstructed, it exemplifies the sumptuousness of the palaces of that era. On the walls of some chambers are traces of the mural paintings that once covered all pre Hispanic buildings.
When Teotihuacan was in its heyday, it drew religious pilgrims from as far away as Yucatan and Central America. During that same period it was also the most important trading center in the Mexican highlands.
Several good restaurants operate in the archaeological zone, including one installed more than 50 years ago in a mammoth grotto. There is a small, good museum.
From October to May, every night except Wednesday, a light and sound spectacle in English is presented at 7 P.M. The script incorporates the legends that sprang up with respect to Teotihuacan, place of mystery. Warm clothing and a lap robe are essential. Tickets are available from travel agencies.
Just off the toll road, about 6 miles south of Teotihuacan, is the handsome, fortress type Church and Monastery of Acolman, established by the Augustinians in 1539. Probably its most interesting feature is the severely simple, beautifully executed plateresque facade the purest example of that style in Mexico. In the interior of the temple under many layers of paint, colossal 16th century frescoes in three colors red, black, and yellow were discovered during renovation. They resemble those found in more ancient Italian churches. A collection of religious art is exhibited in the monastery. It is open every day.
Teotihuacan, 25 miles northeast of Mexico City via a toll road that takes off from the Laredo highway on the outskirts of the capital, is an archaeological site so majestic that the Aztecs, who came upon it several centuries after its abandonment, named it the "City of the Gods." Its urban area covers 8.7 square miles and, at the height of its glory (about 200 to 600 A.D.) the inhabitants numbered between 100,000 and 200,000. The magnificent ceremonial center and some of the outlying palaces and priestly dwellings have been restored, and the zone is open every day.
Facing on the Plaza of the Moon and along both sides of the Avenue of the Dead are numerous small, flat topped pyramids and temples. At the southwest corner of the plaza stands the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl. Completely reconstructed, it exemplifies the sumptuousness of the palaces of that era. On the walls of some chambers are traces of the mural paintings that once covered all pre Hispanic buildings.
