San Blas

Sleepy San Blas is a peaceful, quiet, picturesque destination for travelers who shun the luxuries of more tourist oriented towns.

Tropical jungles and a variety of wildlife surround the village. The beautiful beaches near Matanchen Bay are ideal for sunning and beachcombing; offshore islands abound with colorful tropical birds and offer rewarding finds for shell collectors. Near the fishing area in San Blas you can charter a boat or take an excursion to several remote beaches accessible only by water.

You can drive to San Blas in about half an hour on a good 22 mile, paved road (Highway 54) past thatched huts, small streams, and dense jungle unlike anything else you'll see on the coastal route. Small streams almost always flow near the roadside, and you'll probably see people bathing and doing their laundry along the banks. Marshy flats replace coquito palms and dark estuaries wind through the low vegetation, their banks solidly lined with mangroves too thick to walk through. Exposed roots are encrusted with oysters.

Today, life in San Blas drifts slowly and languorously along. A few small craft, dress, and jewelry shops are scattered among the adobe and wattle huts clustered around the church and the rose scented central plaza. Neat cobblestone streets lined with coconut palms lend a South Seas atmosphere to the area.

During colonial days San Blas was a bustling port; now the impressive customs house near the end of the main street remains as a decaying relic of a bygone era. On the crest of a small hill overlooking the newer section of town is old San Blas, built during the reign of the Spaniards. Hike or drive up here for a look at the crumbling remains of the fort, church, and other small buildings overgrown with vegetation. (Mosquitoes are often numerous here so don't plan a long stay.) You may see some iguanas scaly creatures sometimes over 2 feet long inhabiting the ruins.

At the main beach, a wide sandy strip about a mile from the center of town, swimming is good year round. Along the beach you'll find bathhouses and hotels, and stands selling tantalizing sweets. Accommodations are adequate but a bit below standards usually demanded by American tourists.

A popular excursion is a jungle boat trip up La Tobara tributary. Beginning at the bridge over the San Cristobal River and passing through mangrove swamps and crystal clear jungle pools, the journey takes about 21/2 hours and stops at coffee and banana plantations, giving visitors a chance to see orchids and other tropical vegetation. Colorful birds such as egrets, herons, and ibises abound, and you might see an iguana or coatimundi.

The best time to go to San Blas is between November and May. Strong winds usually blow across the beach in the afternoon. Summers are hot and humid, though it is sometimes cool enough for a blanket at night. One warning: Take some insect repellent. Though insect control is improving, small gnats called jejenes often swarm around the estuaries and beaches until about 9 A.M. and again in late afternoon.