San Angel

Your eyes will be drawn first to the enormous pile of El Carmen Church and Convent, built by the Carmelites in 1615-17. Services continue to be held in this church resplendent in gold leaf, Puebla tile, and oil paintings. In the thickwalled convent, the National Institute of Anthropology and History maintains a museum of colonial art and workshops where authentic copies of pre Hispanic ceramic figures and jewelry are manufactured and offered for sale.

San Jacinto Plaza, a long block west of Revolucion, is surrounded by some of San Angel's oldest buildings. The 18th century Casa del Risco on the east side, for example, was a private residence until recent years. Now it is a museum displaying all the furnishings of a bygone era furniture, paintings, chandeliers, and chinaware. Set in one wall of the patio is the huge fountain that gives the house its name because it forms a fantastic risco, or cliff, of multicolored tiles and fine porcelain pieces.

On the front of a building on the west side of the plaza is a bronze plaque unveiled in 1959, which reads: "In memory of the Irish soldiers of the heroic St. Patrick's Brigade, martyrs who gave their lives for the Mexican cause during the unjust North American invasion of 1847." The names of 68 officers and enlisted men follow.

Archives of the Library of Congress reveal, though, that these "martyred heroes" were actually deserters from the U.S. army who, in July, 1847, signed agreements to serve in the Mexican army in exchange for land grants. Many of them came from San Patricio, Texas hence the name "St. Patrick's Brigade." After their capture and court martial by U.S. forces, 23 were hanged, and 24 were lashed, branded, and dishonorably discharged. The fate of the rest of the men is not known.

Also on the west side of San Jacinto Plaza is the Bazaar Sabado, or Saturday Bazaar. It occupies a 17th century mansion from which the sleeping Santa Ana barely escaped with his life on the day U.S. troops took San Angel. On Saturdays only, from 10 A.M. to 8 P.M., some 100 craftsmen, Mexican and foreign, display their creations many of contemporary rather than traditional designrunning the gamut from exquisite silverware and jewelry through clothing and textiles to furniture. There is a restaurant on the patio.

If you haven't yet had lunch (or if it is time for dinner) try the charmingly different ambience of the San Angel Inn, Palmas 50. The early 18th century manor house of a 90,000 acre hacienda, it became a restaurant in 1963 and offers international cuisine. Dining is indoors or on the broad terraces that surround a lovely patio filled with flowers.

Exploring San Angel on foot through the winding cobblestone streets is a thoroughly enjoyable experience, if you are comfortably shod. The area was "discovered" in the 18th century by viceroys, members of the nobility, and high churchmen. Since it is higher and somewhat cooler than downtown Mexico City, San Angel became a fashionable spot for rest and recreation, especially in the summer. Many of the homes built by aristocrats still stand, mostly behind high walls, of course. Home and garden tours are arranged by the Ladies' Club of San Angel; ask your travel agent, or inquire at the American Book Store, Madero 25.