Juchitan is 17 miles east of Tehuantepec in open plain country. Juchitan and Tehuantepec have been rivals over the years, a fact that is evident in the tacit challenge that exists for residents to outdress one another in traditional costume regalia. The town is about the same size as Tehuantepec, but more spread out; it has larger squares and the streets are wider and gracefully shaded by trees.
The marketplace overflows out of a high ceilinged shed into a series of arches or portales on one side of the main square.
Juchitan, like Tehuantepec, has a matriarchal society, and the two towns share a similar fiesta tradition the Vela, literally "vigil," but certainly a much happier affair than the name implies. Velas are usually sponsored by a family, frequently on the same date each year; for example, the Ruiz family will offer its Vela every year on April 20. Held in a temporary shelter near (not in) the home of the host family, Velas may continue for 1, 2, or 3 days and nights. Guests are expected to cooperate with food, drink, or funds; outsiders may be welcomed on the same terms.
Marimba music is favored, and it is here that the famous sandunga is danced. In rhythm a waltz (the obligatory turns display the skirted Tehuana costume to swirling advantage), the sandunga is usually minor in tone, slow in tempo, and haunting in effect.