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Thirty miles beyond Izamal (75 miles from Merida) on Highway 180, just past the village of Piste, are the ruins of Chichen Itza, the most visited of all Maya cities unearthed to date in Yucatan.

North of the highway is the extensively restored group of structures preferred by sightseers. The most imposing building is called El Castillo (the castle), and is located in the Great Plaza. It is a pyramid some 75 feet high; each side of its square base is approximately 180 feet long. At certain hours (check at the office or in the official guidebook) you can climb steep stairs up and into an inner temple. Inside is a remarkable stone jaguar, painted red with spots and eyes of a green stone, that may have served as a high priest's throne.

Also on the north side of Chichen Itza are the ruins of a huge ball court and many other buildings including the Temple of the Warriors, which also has an inner structure that may be visited during certain hours. Like the one at the castle, this inner structure was the original pyramidtemple and the one you see today was built over it. Chichen Itza has its cenote, too, into which offerings and human beings were thrown to appease the rain god. In 1885 Edward Thompson, then American consul to Yucatan, bought the area for $75 and spent years exploring the depths of the cenote. Another more scientific exploration was made in 1968. Many of the objects that have been foundof jade, bone, shell, copper, and gold were brought from distant areas, indicating that pilgrims came to Chichen Itza from far flung Maya communities to make offerings at the sacred cenote.

. On the south side of the highway are older ruins, less impressive but equally interesting, spread out over a larger area reached by paths cut through the underbrush. El Caracol (the conch) is perhaps the predominant structure, Cylindrical in shape, it may have served as an observatory. El Caracol, the Nunnery complex, the church, and most of the other buildings are pure Maya in style; the structures on the north side of the highway, though, reflect the influence of the Toltecs who followed on the heels of the Maya Classic period that ended about 900 A.D.

According to archaeologists' theories, construction began in the city about 450 A.D. It was invaded by the Itza early in the 10th century and occupied late in that same century by the Toltecs, who superimposed upon it their architecture and culture.

Several hotels are near the archaeological zoneone of them built around the manor house of the 400 year old Hacienda Chichen. Reservations are advisable, especially between Christmas and Easter week when you'll be likely to find the best weather. Most hotel restaurants are open to the public.

You should take at least 2 days preferably even longer to explore all the ruins in the area thoroughly. You can take in the most significant structures in a day, if necessary. Guides and cars may be secured in Merida; package tours are also available. The archaeological zone is open daily.

Three miles east of Chichen Itza is the Cave of Balancanche, open every day at certain hours. The cave is a labyrinth of passages and chambers containing Maya Toltec artifacts including ceremonial vases, jars, and grinding stones. A cenote filled with small, blind fish is located at the end of one passageway.

The cave was discovered by chance a decade ago when a Yucatecan tourist guide removed some stones piled one upon another near the entrance. Evidently used as a ceremonial center, the cave contains the largest collection of Maya Toltec ceramics found to date.