Campeche is an important shrimp fishing center. Drive or walk along the waterfront south of town to see shrimp boats being built by craftsmen who make all the fittings by hand. Fine hardwoods from the nearby forests go into their construction. Venture a little farther about 4 miles from town to a pier where most of the shrimping activity centers. You can wander along the pier and watch the shrimp being unloaded. North along the waterfront, you'll see thatched huts among the palms that grow to the water's edge. Here fishermen work on their boats or dry and mend nets.
The Campeche area produces some good buys for shoppers including finely woven Panama type hats (jipi japa), hammocks, and wood specialties.
You can visit the old wall and ancient forts, either on your own or with an English speaking guide who will drive you there in a carriage with fringe on top. The Arms Museum and the Ar chaeology Museum are both worth a visit; artifacts on display create a vivid picture of local history.
The curled noses of Kabah
The archaeological site of Kabah is located 65 miles south of Merida. The outstanding building is the Codz Poop (Rolled Mat), the facades of which are completely covered by masks of the long nosed rain god, Chac. Fifteen years ago the upturned noses were all intact; today, many are missingtaken as souvenirs by thoughtless sightseers. A large corbeled arch at Kabah signals the beginning of the sacbe (white road) that once carried Maya religious processions to Uxmal, 12 miles away.
On to Maya ruinsContinuing east from Campeche, Highway 180 branches off north from Highway 261 at Chencoyi, 15 miles from Campeche. This is an interesting route to Merida, passing through Maya villages that have changed little over the centuries. At Hecelchakan there is a museum with pieces from the island of Jaina where the pre Hispanic Maya had a cemetery and left notable funeral offerings.
But to see splendid Maya ruins, proceed east on Highway 261. Nine miles from Chencoyi is the 11mile paved turnoff to the right leading to the ruins of Edzna, a site remarkable for its 5 story structures, unusual in Maya architecture. Back on Highway 261, it is 24 miles to Hopelchen where the route turns north to Merida. Forty five miles away is the first major archaeological site Kabah.
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Highway 180 has four ferry crossings en route to Campeche. It is advisable to get an early start from Villahermosa so you can catch all four in one day, beginning with the ferry at Frontera.
This first ferry crosses the Grijalva River 45 miles from Villahermosa at a community called San Roman. The town of Frontera is on the other side. The ferry runs from 3 A.M. until 11 P.M., and the crossing takes from 15 to 20 minutes. There is a small toll for cars as well as for trailers. It is unwise, though, for trailers to use the ferries; undercarriages may be damaged. Inland Highway 186 is a better choice for travelers driving these vehicles.
The next ferry is 15 miles farther along Highway 180, across the San Pedro River. The ferry runs throughout the day; the trip takes 10 minutes. A toll is also required here for cars and trailers.
The third ferry crossing takes longer 25 to 30 minutes. It leaves from Zacatal, a mile beyond the lighthouse community of Xicalango, and runs to Ciudad del Carmen on Isla del Carmen, an island separated from the mainland by the Laguna de Terminos.
The town of Carmen is 4 miles long. Beyond it the island stretches for 22 miles to Puerto Real, where you take the fourth (and longest) ferry ride. The crossing from Puerto Real to the mainland takes the better part of an hour, and ferries run more or less continuously throughout the day. If you miss the ferry and are stranded for the night on the island, you'll find fairly good motel and adequate hotel accommodations.
After the fourth ferry, you proceed along palmlined Highway 180 for 65 miles to the seaside shipbuilding town of Champoton and the junction with Highway 261 (the alternate route to Merida). Highway 186, the inland route from Villahermosa, is more monotonous, lacking the tropical vegetation for a good part of the way; one does not have to depend on ferries, though. Highway 186 turns east at Escarcega to Chetumal on the Caribbean, thus traversing the peninsula at its base. Those who wish to go on to Merida must take Highway 261 north to Champoton.
From Champoton to Campeche it is about 40 miles of alternating straight stretches along beaches and winding stretches through hills.
Campeche - pirates and Panama hats Campeche is the progressive, increasingly modern capital of the state of Campeche. It was the first permanent settlement established by the Spaniards on the peninsula after the Spanish Crown granted the area in 1526 to Francisco de Montejo for its conquest and exploitation. A fascinating old seaport, Campeche has a wall topped by forts, originally built in the 17th century as protection against pirates. Now, with waters untroubled by marauders, the new section of the city has risen along the beach. You'll find a fine seashore drive, a freeform Municipal Palace, and a 6 story air conditioned bayside hotel.