San Jose del and Cabo San Lucas Baja California, Mexico

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The end of the great Baja peninsula comes into sight at last. Gradually the desert shore curves westward toward the green splash of San Jose del Cabo, then on and on to the final tall rocks that stand apart and unapproachable.

Here Baja California reaches a climax of sorts, not only in geography but also in the beguiling settings, extravagant spaciousness, and elaborate embellishments of its hotels. Prices don't really soar until you get past San Jose del Cabo, a neat, sunny little town that invites exploring.

Between San Jose del Cabo and the end of the Cape Cabo San Lucas you'll pass many protected coves with small white beaches that, unfortunately, are often fenced off and inaccessible to the visitor. Pirates lay in wait in bygone years planning to loot the richly laden Manila galleon, a trading ship on its annual voyage to Acapulco with stores of Oriental finery and spices and sometimes a fortune in gold. After the long voyage of 6 months or more, the ship headed in toward shore to stop at San Jose del Cabo for fresh water and supplies. Frequently, bold sea dogs Thomas Cavendish among them made off with the rich booty. That wreck on the beach just east of the Cape is the Japanese longliner Inari Maru No. 10 that ran aground in 1966, lured ashore by local fishermen using a transmitter placed in the hills above the rocks. Old traditions die hard.

Miles and miles of spectacular shores are unbelievably deserted. At Punta Palmilla you'll find an exception Hotel Palmilla, a luxurious resort standing above the red rocks and white sands of the headland. So opulent is the resort's appearance that for a moment you may think it is a Moorish mirage. Hotel guests fly in on the hotel's private landing strip for fishing that ranks with the best.

Ten miles beyond Palmilla and an additional step up in price and lavishness is Hotel Cabo San Lucas, spreading grandly and improbably on a desert shore where a few years ago only an obscure rancho stood.

The very tip of the peninsula has several modest hotels and many luxury hotels (Hacienda Cabo San Lucas, Hotel Solmar, Hotel Finisterra, Hyatt Cabo San Lucas, and Twin Dolphins) set beside the fine skin diving bay formed in the shelter of the southernmost headland. This is Cabo San Lucas, a small village. It is the terminal point for major airlines, the Puerto Vallarta ferry, and a shore port for Mexico coastal cruises. Cabo San Lucas has an amazing array of activities to offer, from beautiful beaches and water sports such as diving and kayaking to an endless string of bars and nightclubs that provide a continuous party. The best diving areas are Roca Pelfcano,the sea lion colony off land's end, and the reef off playa chileno at bahia chileno east of town.