When a number of Franciscan friars arrived from Spain in 1524, Cortez granted them four square blocks of land on the western shore of the island capital. Then he ordered a narrow street to be cut through from the Zocalo so that the friars might have easy access to church and government offices. The street was first called San Francisco, and members of the aristocracy built their mansions along its 6 block length.
Eventually, as in all large cities, commerce began to move out to the less congested suburbs, leaving the downtown area to decay. Since 1970, however, the city government has rejuvenated all streets leading into the Zocalo from the west including eliminating unsightly signs and cables; sand blasting, painting, and repairing building facades; paving the streets with octagonal red tile and the sidewalks with pink stone blocks; planting trees and shrubbery; and installing colonial type street lighting.
A stroll down Avenida Madero renamed to honor the leader of the Revolution of 1910 is a delightful journey into the past.
The Church of La Profesa, corner of Isabel ]a Catolica, was built by the Jesuits in the 16th century. Here, in 1820, members of the clergy and other Spaniards plotted to defeat Mexico's bid for independence by bringing in a European prince to rule the country. Among the plotters was Agustin de Iturbide who, after consummating Mexico's independence through guile, was to proclaim himself emperor.
The Palace of Iturbide, just 2 blocks west at Madero 17, is an elegant building. Completely restored in 1972, it now houses the offices of a financial institution. Its construction as a private dwelling was begun in 1779 by the Count of San Mateo. When Iturbide entered the city in triumph on September 27, 1821, the building's owner invited him to make the palace his home. After having himself crowned emperor in July, 1822, Iturbide continued to live there, but only for 10 months until he was forced to abdicate and fled into exile, The following year, when he attempted to reenter Mexico, Iturbide was captured and executed.
The Church and Monastery of San Francisco, nestling behind the Latin American Tower, played a dominant role in the spiritual and social life of the people from 1524 until the 1850s. The four square blocks ceded to the Franciscans by Cortez were bounded roughly by today's streets of Madero, San Juan de Letran, Venustiano Carranza, and Bolivar. There the city's first church was built in 1525. The present church, the third to stand on the site, dates from 1716, Recent excavations permit a complete view of the lovely facade and reveal that the heavy structure has sunk 12 feet into the spongy subsoil.
The House of Tiles, directly across the street at Madero 4, is one of the city's downtown show places Another palatial residence, the building was erected prior to 1708 as the town house of the Counts of Orizaba. The facing of Puebla tiles it wears was added in 1737. For many years the exclusive Jockey Club occupied the building. Then in 1919 the first Sanborn's restaurant was installed in the spacious patio, where it continues to operate today.
The Numismatic Museum is just west of Sanborn's across narrow Condesa Street on the second floor of the Guardiola Building. The 20,000 piece collection includes duck quills filled with gold dust; cacao beans and jade beads used as media of exchange before the Conquest; coins brought in by the Spaniards and those they minted in Mexico during the colonial period; money coined by insurgents during the War for Independence and, a century later, the Revolution of 1910. Admission is free; hours are 10 A.M. to 4 P.M., Monday through Friday.
The 44 story Latin American Tower, on the opposite corner of Madero and San Juan de Letran, has suffered no damage from sinking or earthquakes despite its height and weight since construction in 1956, because it is built on a concrete slab resting on pilings anchored in solid rock 100 feet below the surface. Water is injected around the pilings to maintain the level of the building. The 42nd floor is a mirador (scenic lookout) commanding a superb view of the entire valley; the Muralto restaurant and cocktail lounge occupy the floor below.