Thirty five miles south of Durango is the humble, time worn farm settlement of Nombre de Dios, the first Spanish settlement in the state of Durango. Today, only ghostly shadows inhabit this 400 yearold farm, though sometimes an occasional figure can still be seen lingering amidst the crumbling walls. It is worth the short detour off the highway to drive through the cobbled streets and past ancient courtyards planted with tropical fruits.
Past the detour a dusty road sign informs you that you're crossing the Tropic of Cancer. Ten miles south, Highway 45 merges with Highway 49. At Fresnillo (now by passed), a flat, dusty city greets you with gigantic slag piles of tailings from silver mining and grey smelters with a regiment of black smokestacks that dwarf the unassuming church spires.