La Paz Baja California Mexico

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From La Paz to the tip of Baja you're in resort land where campers are outnumbered. Almost everyone arrives here by air or by water, exactly as if this area were an island an island about 100 miles long and 50 miles wide, with sea and land mixed in most agreeable proportions. It is also a desert island, though, and that is one of its special qualities. Cactus comes right down to the beach, even in the lower half of the peninsula which lies south of the Tropic of Cancer. Many of the beaches are as empty as Robinson Crusoe's. It is impossible to get more than about 20 miles from water on either one side or the other. Going inland usually means going up a little (peaks are over 6,000 feet), so you're always looking out toward sea.

Private pilots make Baja's tip a favorite target. Surprisingly luxurious resorts south of La Paz have their own airstrips that are also used by the air taxi service from La Paz.

You can drive through this region in a loop trip from La Paz (rental cars available) down the gulf side of the peninsula to Cabo San Lucas, and then up the Pacific side by way of Todos Santos. Roads are paved except for a stretch on the Pacific side.

A friendly welcome in La Paz

La Paz, capital of Baja California Sur, lost part of its drowsy charm when it geared up for the tourists who arrive by ferry from Topolobampo and Mazatlan and by jet from the U.S. No longer a backwater town, La Paz is still an intriguing city of 50,000 that is fondly remembered by most visitors. Attractions are within 2 or 3 blocks of the coconut palm lined waterfront drive a circumstance encouraging strolling, even though cabs hover about.

The life of the city centers around the water. Even the bandstand traditional center of the Mexican town plaza adjoins the malecoil. the beach walk alongside the sea wall in La Paz. You'll see two piers: one serving sport fishing boats, the other serving commercial shipping. Farther west is the Topolobampo ferry terminal; the ferry to Mazatlan is 12 miles north of the city at Pichilingue.

La Paz seems quite different from cities of mainland Mexico, and many find it more friendly. More than a few of the buildings are quaint and almost Victorian in appearance. The most conspicuous landmark is the mission, a large rose pink church facing the plaza. On the opposite side, a theater and museum have replaced the old Government Palace. A new impressive state capitol has been built in the south part of town.

Water sports.Superb angling brings most people to La Paz. You can rent fishing equipment, boats, and guides, or take a several day cruise on the gulf. Baja's fishing bible is The Sea of Cortez by Ray Cannon and the Sunset editors. You'll encounter this book and references to it in every hotel and resort where fishermen stay.

Snorkelers and scuba divers for sport will enjoy bay waters that are warm and wonderfully clear, teeming with brilliantly colored fish not at all frightened by a human presence. Around the rocks near the beaches you'll find legions of hermit crabs or enormous chitons, and starfish with 20 or more feathery rays.

You can rent a small boat to reach the sandspit across the estuary a fine place for beachcombing. The swimming beaches of Coromuel and La Ramada, 2 miles from shore hotels, are best reached by round trip taxi excursions.

Shopping. La Paz is a free port so you'll find a few stores offering bargains. The best shopping is around Hotel La Perla, but remember that stores close in the afternoon for siesta. Some shops carry native crafts brought in from surrounding villages and from the mainland. The gulf waters' spiny, puffy blowfish are caught, cured, and sold by small Mexican boys; price depends on your bargaining ability.

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